Team Trip to our UK Fragrance House

Trends

Just like fashion, fragrance is also trend-led. Sakina and our product development teams, alongside our fragrance house, catch up seasonally to discuss new collections, trending scents and current projects. In the 70s and 80s, perfume trends were very opulent, and in the 90s, the fashion was simple; however, in the noughties, it was all about sweetness. Don’t you think it’s interesting how these trends evolve through the decades?

History of Fragrance

Spending some time with the perfumers at our fragrance house, we learned about the back story of fragrance. Originating in Egypt in 3000 BC, initially, scent was involved with ceremonies and rituals. It wasn’t until 800 BC that fragrance was involved with washing, and in 500 BC, the Romans started using it for bathing. 300 years BC, incense was commonly used in Chinese temples, but it wasn’t until the 5th century it was beginning to be distilled in Europe. Fragrance was first used in gloves which became a popular trend across Europe and were used to mask foul smells and poor hygiene. 

Modern Perfume

It wasn’t until the industrial revolution that perfume was widely available for the wealthy. Since 1900, synthetic fragrances have been created to mimic the smells found in nature. In the 20s, Channel No. 5 was the first famous luxurious sent, and it wasn’t until the 50s that men’s fragrance was introduced.

How do we smell fragrance? 

We use our noses to smell, but our olfactory receptors send signals to our brains. If you’re interested in fragrance, you may have heard of the layers of perfume, often drawn as a triangle with the top notes, followed by the heart in the middle and the base notes at the bottom. The top note is believed to be very important as it’s the fragrance’s first impression, where the fragrance’s heart is what makes it last, and the base is the foundation.

Synthetic vs. Natural

Perhaps a common misconception is that synthetic fragrance is inferior to natural fragrance. However, both ingredients have pros and cons, and modern perfume is generally a blend of both. Natural fragrances are rich and complex but extremely expensive they can be impacted significantly by environmental and political issues. Synthetics, conversely, are safer simple molecules that provide a consistent, regulated supply. Thank goodness nowadays that animal by-products (such as deer musk) are banned for use in fragrances.  

Fragrance Families

The perfume industry uses various fragrance families to group scents; common ones include: 

• Amber: A rich, smooth group of scents often used in classic fragrances, including vanilla and spices. 
• Chypre: Sophisticated scents including wood, moss and patchouli. 
• Woody: Often used as base notes in men’s perfumes, including oak, sandalwood & cedarwood. 
• Fresh/Citrus: Modern and refreshing for a lighter scent, including lemon and neroli notes. 
• Floral: The most popular category, often combining our favourite flowers such as rose, lily and jasmine. 
• Fruity: Fun, vibrant, and usually sweet, including raspberry, grapefruit and trending Cherry. 

The STC team loved the time spent with the perfumers; their knowledge and skill is simply fascinating. A typical path to becoming a professional perfumer starts with a degree in Chemistry, followed by attending a specialised perfume school and being mentored for years. As we spent the day smelling so many different scents, it was evident that fragrance is very personal and what one person may love, the next may despise. As a business, we try to create products that appeal to many people, so it’s a great exercise to sample fragrances on mass and gain a consensus for our upcoming products!